How-To Video: DIY Cable Deck Railing Installation

First, place the parts near the location of their installation.

Begin your installation at any corner by using the corner fitting to mark the connection location. The connection location will be used to calculate the post location.

Mark the post location 1″ away from the connection location. Post spacing is determined by many factors, which include side-load, wind-load, structural attachment method, and strength among others. These calculations are made during the design consultation stage of the process to meet safety standards.

Measure 8″ below the deck to determine where to side mount the post. Measuring is necessary because placing each post at a different height would prevent the top rail from being level.

Plumb the post with a level. Plumbing a post means making adjustments to ensure that it is completely vertical. Place the level against the side of the post. Adjust the level as needed until the bubble is centered between the two lines.

Drill the pilot holes while holding the drill as straight as possible. There are two holes needed for each post for the Clearview® – 3/8″ Lag Screw on the top and bottom. A pilot hole is a hole that is drilled as a guide for the installation of a screw and prevents the wood from splitting. For top mount posts, pilot holes can be drilled with an AGS – 3/16″ x 12″ Drill Bit, this long drill bit allows for more vertical holes.

Thread the Clearview® – 3/8″ x 5″ Lag Screws into the pilot holes by applying pressure to the heads and turning clockwise. Then tighten them with an impact wrench & socket, snug them enough to keep the post plumb in all directions.

Spread BASF – Bonding Agent inside the connecting handrails to prevent them from rotating after being installed.

Install the handrails onto the post fittings. Twist the top rail 1/2 turn to spread the BASF – Bonding Agent around the post fitting and create a good bond.

Use acetone with a soft rag to remove excess BASF – Bonding Agent on the handrails and round post caps.

Use tape to hold the connections in place until the BASF – Bonding Agent cures to a tack, which takes approximately 24-72 hours. It fully cures in 7 days.

Slide the Clearview® – Cable through all of the holes in the intermediate posts (the ones between the end posts).

To thread the end posts, pull the Clearview® – Cable through the hole in the end post. Rainier cable railing systems under the Clearview® brand generally use Clearview® – Cables. The posts are pre-drilled with a fiber laser cutting machine during the fabrication stage.

To cut the cable hold the Clearview® – Cable taut with one hand, hold the AGS – Cable Cutters against the post, and cut the Clearview® – Cable. AGS – Cable Cutters are made of hardened steel and have shear blades with a bypass design that are exceptional for use with Clearview® – Cables.

Crimp cable twice and insert the cable into the Clearview® – Standard Cable Fitting and crimp both sides for attaching a cable to a post. Crimping will be required unless swageless fittings are used, which can be released with a simple release key. Crimping cables involves inserting them into fittings. AGS – Cable Crimpers use compression for connecting a cable to a fitting.

Slip the Clearview® – Standard Cable Fitting – Exterior with an attached Clearview® – Cable through the end post and thread on a jam nut until 1/8″ of threads are exposed. Expose ONLY 1/8″ of threads beyond the jam nut, so that there will be sufficient space to tension the Clearview® – Cables and install the acorn nut. A stainless steel jam nut has a hexagon shape with a threaded hole through the center.

Thread an acorn nut on top of the jam nut. A stainless steel acorn nut has one capped end and a threaded hole in the other end. Acorn nuts provide a more finished look than exposed threads on the ends of Clearview® – Standard Cable Fittings – Exterior. Since acorn nuts have rounded ends, they will be much less likely to snag clothes or pet fur.

After all the cable fittings from one end of the run are installed, repeat steps 4 & 5 until all of the cables and fittings have been installed at both ends of the run.